Paris Through Jewish Eyes: A Tour with Valeria Asher, Certified French Guide
light up with pride to learn about the glorious French Jews
I met Valeria Asher at Kehilat Gesher synagogue in Paris, a progressive and bilingual synagogue led by Rabbi Tom Cohen. Valeria and I both love cottage chesse and being mothers, which in my mind are wonderful things to share.
When I learned that she is a tour guide with a special interest in Jewish Parisian history, I knew I wanted to invite her to share some of her expertise with our community.
Having lived outside the US since 2005, I've developed a habit of taking tours during the initial days in a new destination. Whether we’re visiting a new city for a long weekend or arriving somewhere that will be home for a while, I find taking a tour really helps us to get a footing and a deeper understanding of where we are. Often we go on general cultural tours and a Jewish history tour, if it’s availble. Delving into Jewish history is a personal interest, and I'm eager for my daughter to learn about Jewish history alongside me.
Paris is one of the world's top travel destinations, and today it is home to the largest Jewish population in France. The history of the Jewish community in Paris actually goes back to the Roman times. I love living in Paris, and understanding the extensive Jewish history adds a profound layer to the city's allure.
These days, when we are all glued to news about what's happening in Israel and global politics related to Israel, I hope this interview about the rich history of French Jews feels like a nourishing break. In a world often dominated by current events, delving into Jewish life in Paris offers not only a historical perspective but also a chance to connect with the enduring spirit of the Jewish community that has contributed significantly to France’s cultural fabric.
May we all learn something from Valeria's passion for, and knowledge of, Jewish history in Paris.
Can you please introduce yourself to our readers? Tell us a bit about your background, your journey to becoming a certified French Tour guide, and your connection to Paris.
My name is Valeria Asher, and I was born in Ukraine and grew up in the United States. My grandmother is a bibliophile and she planted that love in me; I always enjoyed reading and my favorite genre is non-fiction. As a student at the University of Pennsylvania I majored in Psychology, but I was able to sneak in a few literature, history and art classes too.
I didn’t consider a career as a tour guide until I moved to France with my family in 2015. Raising two American children here enticed me to educate myself and share my knowledge with my family. France has a rich history and I would engulf myself with history books and visit every possible exhibition. One day my daughter asked me why I didn’t share all the stories that I read with others. This is how the idea to become a certified French Tour Guide emerged.
I studied at Conservatoire National des Arts and Metiers. The National Conservatory of Arts and Crafts (Cnam) was founded in 1794 by Abbé Grégoire to enhance French national industries. Today, it is a public institution with a scientific, cultural, and professional character, under the supervision of the Ministry of Higher Education and Research.
What sparked your interest in Jewish history in France, and how did this passion lead you to focus on creating Jewish French History Tours?
During the COVID pandemic we had to homeschool our children. Our girls were eight and ten years old at the time. My husband and I decided to add a few USA history lessons to their French curriculum. We wanted to help them understand what was happening in the nascent USA in parallel to France. We talked about the kings, General Lafayette, the revolutions and World War II. When we arrived on the subject of the Holocaust our daughters wanted to know what happened to the French Jews. I realized how little I knew about French Jewish history and especially what happened to the Jews during the war. Luckily, I had a lot of time to read and watch conferences on the subject so that’s exactly what I did. I was awestruck about the richness of Jewish history and the impressive Jewish heritage that we see in Paris and in France today. Let’s just say, Paris wouldn’t look like it does today without the Jews.
You recently went back to school to become a certified French Tour guide. How has this additional education enriched your understanding of the history and culture you share on your tours?
I’m completing my studies at the Conservatoire National des Arts et Métiers in Paris. It is such a privilege to attend classes in a building that was constructed in the 7th Century. Of course, it wasn’t originally built to be an institute of higher learning, but in a way a monastery is an educational institution of some sort. Learning art history from professionals helped me better understand the fine details related to the process in which artists arrived at certain techniques. Even though I don’t make a habit of irritating my tour guests by using over the top specialist technical terminology to describe a building or a sculpture, it’s important to have the appropriate training. Furthermore, being able to expand my focus and see the comparison between Jewish, French and European history has helped me see a bigger picture and, in some way, comprehend the pas better.
Coming from Ukraine, how do you approach and ensure cultural sensitivity when presenting the history of Jews in France to diverse groups of visitors?
History is like a pointillist painting: you need to take a step back to see those dots blend into a picture. I believe as a foreigner I have that ability to see French Jewish history from a distance, and that allows me to understand it. Certainly, one must learn all of the tiniest details, names and places to connect the dots. However, sometimes it’s also important to look at the bigger overall picture too, and see that there are both good and bad parts of the journey.
I was born in the Soviet Union and grew up in a Russian-Ukrainian-Uzbek family. We spoke the Russian language, ate Uzbek plov and lived in Kyiv. Growing up I heard stories about the Holocaust and what different branches of my family went through: from nearly escaping Babyn Yar to living in Samarkand to hiding in a forest. We read Sholem Aleichem, Potok, and Appelfeld. However, it’s a sentence from Tolstoy that impacted me the most. It goes something like this:
“What is a Jew? It is a unique creature that is persecuted, burned and drowned, and who, despite their anger and their fury, continues to live and to flourish. (Tolstoy, L. 1922 pp « what is a Jew? » In A Book of Jewish Thoughts, London: Oxford U Press. Hertz, J.H. ed 135-136)
I had to look this quote up the first time I read it in Russian in my grandma’s copy ofThe Diaries of Leo Tolstoy, which is filled with short essays including Tolstoy’s correspondence with Sholem Aleichem.
In March of 2022, we hosted a Ukrainian refugee family for a few months until we were able to find them more permanent housing. During their stay we celebrated Passover and many Shabbat dinners. We talked about war atrocities and how grief is grief and you mustn’t compare the pain.
My kids love tales from Chelm where a rabbi teaches his students lessons through a parable.
History is a compendium of multiple stories compiled into a book. As a tour guide, I am prepared to adapt my narrative to all my visitors.
Could you provide our readers with a brief overview of Jewish history in France?
My brief guide to the history of Jews in Paris has four main points.
Parisian Jewish history begins in the VI century. Many Jewish merchants settled in Paris and became quite successful. With time, France became a Catholic country and French kings became more observant. Jews lived in limbo for 200 years until finally, in 1394, Charles VI expelled them from his kingdom. On one of my tours, I show visitors exactly where some of these events took place.
Skipping forward, Napoleon Bonaparte grants Jews French citizenship and this is when the opulent part of French Jewish history began. New rules permitted Jews to live where they wanted and practice any profession. These incentives attracted many families, including prominent Jewish bankers. Parisian Jews financed the city’s transformation, becoming art patrons and art collectors, politicians and lawyers. They wrote operas and novels, they fought in the French army, they hosted the poshest salons and that’s not all. Unfortunately, as we know, after “la belle epoque” came lugubrious times.
When Hitler came to power there were around 350,000 Jews living in France. During WWII 75,000 Jews in France were deported, of whom only 2,500 returned. Those who came back tried to reunite with their families who were in hiding or had been able to escape to Switzerland, the UK, the USA or Israel. Many Jews permanently left France and the population dwindled.
In the 1960s many Sephardic Jews from northern Africa arrived after the Northern African colonies’ wars of independence from France. They brought with them delicious food, beautiful music and new traditions. The Jewish scene changed in France. As of 2010 over 75% of French Jews are Sephardic. I can happily direct you to many bakeries and restaurants in Paris that are either kosher or kosher style where you can explore this delicious cuisine.
I love watching people and seeing their faces light up with pride to learn about the glorious French Jews and their accomplishments.
Can you share some key highlights or unique aspects of your Jewish French History Tours that guests can look forward to experiencing?
I like to customize my tours, taking into account individual preferences and interests of my guests. Paris has a vibrant French Jewish history, andmany Paris museums also have relics dating back to Biblical times. In addition to different Jewish History of Paris walking tours, I propose a Biblical Louvre Tour and/or deep dives into relics at the Museum of Jewish History in Paris.
How do you tailor your tours to engage families, and what aspects of Jewish history do you find resonate most with younger audiences?
For the young audience I have an activity book that we fill out during the tour. During one of the activities, we explore role playing and reenact a scene in history (don’t worry, it's only about 5 minutes long). We also try to come up with the best “knock-knock joke” about historical figures, and of course we stop to taste something scrumptious along the way to experience (or establish for the younger tour goers) a true Proustian moment.
Your tours also explore modern Jewish food in Paris. Could you tell us about some of the culinary experiences families can expect and the significance of these foods in the context of Jewish history?
As you probably know, the French are very serious about their food and French Jews are no different. During the food tour, we explore historical Jewish areas while discovering modern Jewish food. The connection of the two might be surprising, yet I invite you to see it as a celebration of the continuation of our tradition: we suffered, we survived, let's eat!
Do you have a favorite historical site or a hidden gem in Paris that you love to share with your tour participants? What makes it special to you?
I absolutely love Parc Monceau and its Jewish history, including The Camondo Museum, its treasures and family tragedies. I am happy to share with you the destiny of the family relics and where to find them now. What makes it special to me? When Parc Monceau was developed it was the golden age for Jews in Paris. It’s inspiring to talk about their accomplishments.
Another of my favorite spots in Paris is the rue des Immeubles-Industriels. It’s a short and unique street in the 11th arrondissement that, as its name suggests, developed during the industrial revolution in Paris. Each of the 17 buildings on either side had a small workshop on the ground floor, above which the families of the artisans lived. Out of the 450 families that lived on this street, about half were Jewish, many of them from Poland. The Polish Jews who settled on this street after WWI were the first resistance when the Nazis occupied Paris. Tragically, most of them perished in the Holocaust. Their stories must be told and their lives must be celebrated. After the tour we head to a kosher place where you can raise a glass of kosher wine and sample kosher cheese in their honor.
How do you engage with the local Jewish community in Paris, and has their input influenced the content or structure of your tours?
My family is a member of Kehilat Gesher synagogue in Paris. The name says it all – it’s a community that builds bridges. Even though we don’t live near the synagogue, we chose to attend because of the rabbi. Our rabbi, Tom Cohen, is the most loving, supportive and engaging rabbi I have ever met. The services are lively and his derachas are always insightful and captivating. The whole community is incredible and I am not just saying that. Last year our daughter had her bat mitzvah and we felt so loved and supported. We are truly lucky.
We actually live in Versailles, where there is a beautiful historical synagogue built in 1884. There aren’t many families with teenagers in the community, which is another reason why we travel to Paris for services. However, we are very close to many members at the synagogue and I would be happy to organize a visit to share with you the unique story of its conception and construction.
Searching for and discovering Jewish history
I hope this interview with Valeria has given you a taste of the long and fascinating Jewish history of Paris, and perhaps encouraged you to seek out a Jewish history tour in your part of the world - please share your recommendations and experience with me if you do!
There are huge gaps in the history books when it comes to Jewish history, and this practice of connecting with experts to learn and recover our history feels nourishing and essential to me. This has been a major theme through Jewish Food Hero’s community cookbook projects, combining Jewish learning with Jewish family histories and sharing nourishing food that connects our community. As well as sharing her historical expertise with us here on the Substack, Valeria recently contributed a recipe to Jewish Food Hero’s upcoming community cookbook: Sweet and Jewish, a collection of 98 dessert recipes from all around the world, due to be published fall 2024. Valeria shared her Bubbe Tamara’s recipe for Poppy Seed Roll, a quintessential Ukrainian dessert.
Consider bookmarking this Paris Jewish Tour for your upcoming visit to the City of Lights, and share this interview with friends and family who are planning a trip to Paris soon.
To learn more or book a Paris Jewish tour with Valeria, connect with her via email at tourswithvaleria.com. Stay updated on her insightful tours by following along on Instagram at "tourswithvaleria."
Am Yisrael Chai
Kenden
P.S. Do you have a special occupation or passionate interest that you’d like to share with our community? I am really enjoying connecting with Jewish women with diverse expertise and experiences, and I would love to hear from you if you have a story to share.
Yet another reason to return to Paris❣️