Harry’s Kohlrabi & Carrot Fritter Recipe
Savory Hanukkah Recipe
Whenever I travel, I do a food tour because to me food is culture.
Food as a Reflection of History:
Local dishes tell the story of a culture’s geography, migration, and historical events.
Food as a Medium of Tradition:
Recipes passed down through generations preserve a community's heritage and rituals.
Food as a Language:
Cuisine communicates creativity, values, and stories that transcend spoken words.
Food as a Bridge to Community:
Sharing meals connects travelers to local people and fosters understanding and connection.
Anyone who has visited Israel has likely fallen in love with the markets, especially in Jerusalem. These bustling hubs of culture and cuisine offer everything from fragrant spices and fresh produce to family-owned eateries serving dishes passed down for generations. Among the market's many treasures are recipes that blend tradition with innovation, showcasing the incredible diversity of Israeli cuisine.
This interview with Harry Rubenstein, a pastry chef & culinary guide of Israel's open-air food markets, dives into the flavors and stories of the markets, offering a window into their unique charm. As a bonus, Harry shares a fantastic Hanukkah recipe for kohlrabi-carrot fritters, a fresh and festive twist on the classic latke. Whether you're planning a visit to Israel or just looking to bring a taste of its markets to your table, this is a story—and a recipe—you won't want to miss.
Harry, you’ve been shopping and tasting your way through Israel’s markets for over 20 years! Can you tell us a little about yourself and what inspired you to start your culinary tours?
Tasting Kurdish Kubbe soup for the first time in 1997 at Mordoch in Jerusalem’s Mahane Yehuda Market is an important landmark in my culinary origin story. During the five years I lived in Jerusalem, I rarely missed a Friday visit. Mordoch introduced me to Kurdish Jewish soups, sambusak, pastils, fried kubbe, and even kohlrabi—a vegetable I was so unfamiliar with that I had to ask its name in English.
As part of my work in tourism content, I co-founded Jerusalemite (later merged with GoJerusalem.com) and created a self-guided tasting tour of Mahane Yehuda and other markets. These experiences laid the groundwork for my culinary tours.
Years later, after leaving a frustrating start-up job, I found myself at a crossroads. My Ankylosing Spondylitis diagnosis made desk jobs unbearable, so I turned to something more active and fulfilling. I enrolled in culinary school to study pastry and started giving market tours in Jerusalem. Walking 20,000 steps a day and meeting people from around the world transformed my physical and mental health. Now, hundreds of tours later, I get to share the vibrant stories of Israeli markets through my tours and newsletter.
Each Israeli market seems to have a distinct personality. What are some of your favorites? What makes them special?
Levinsky Market in Tel Aviv is a personal favorite. It blends old-world charm with modern vibrancy—imagine a Balkan spice shop next to a third-wave coffee bar. The market showcases family-owned businesses, often run by second or third generations. Persian spice shops double as pharmacies, and Persian restaurants are tucked among vendors selling nuts, dried fruit, and olives. A highlight of my Levinsky tours is watching visitors try kaymak-stuffed hibiscus at Yom Tov—an unforgettable bite.
Ramle Market is another gem, offering an authentic, unpolished experience. It’s where locals shop for vegetables perfect for stuffing, fresh fish, and spices. The street food here is outstanding—Tunisian sandwiches, bourekas, and rare Iraqi sambousek. I always visit the Arab-run hummus joints for masabacha, a version of hummus with whole chickpeas.
In Mahane Yehuda, it’s inspiring to see young entrepreneurs modernizing family businesses. A butcher’s son now sells grass-fed beef; a fishmonger’s son opened a fish and chips shop. These markets are alive with history and innovation.
How has Israel’s street food scene evolved over the years?
Israel’s major markets, like Mahane Yehuda and Carmel, have transitioned from functional marketplaces to culinary destinations. Produce vendors are being replaced by food stalls, creating what I call "the world’s largest kosher food court."
Despite these changes, Jewish grandmother recipes still reign supreme. New spots like Nona serve elevated traditional dishes like mufletta, a Moroccan crepe reimagined as a savory-sweet wrap with fresh vegetables, cheeses, and honey. The flavors are nostalgic yet innovative, a love letter to the market’s heritage.
Yemenite kubaneh bread is another example of street food’s evolution. Traditionally baked overnight, it’s now offered with bold new flavors like cheddar and truffle cream or even a cinnamon-roll-inspired version.
Israel is home to many cultures. How do these diverse communities shape the market experience?
Each market reflects the local population’s heritage. In Mahane Yehuda, for instance, you’ll find both Kurdish Jewish kubbeh and Palestinian versions of the dish, each with distinct spices and techniques.
Israel’s culinary diversity is rooted in cultural diffusion. Shakshuka, brought by Tunisian Jews, is now a national favorite. Ashkenazi bakers have embraced Middle Eastern influences, drizzling sugar syrup over rugelach and babka. These shared traditions are a testament to the land’s layered history.
What healthy food habits stand out in Israeli cuisine?
Salads are a staple. Israelis serve vegetables at every meal, from breakfast to dinner. My kids, raised on this tradition, expect salads even with bagels and cream cheese.
Another standout is olive oil. It’s used generously in nearly every dish, from salads to cooked vegetables. My family of five goes through about 1.5 liters a month.
Variety has also improved—once, tasteless tomatoes dominated the market; now, we have sweet varieties like Maggie tomatoes, a staple in my kitchen.
If readers want to join one of your tours, how can they connect with you?
If you're planning a trip to Israel, I’d love to show you the markets through an insider’s eyes. Your support means a lot, especially in challenging times for small businesses and the tourism industry.
Visit my website to book a tour or subscribe to my Substack newsletter for weekly food adventures and recipes. You can also follow me on Instagram at @harrysbaked for daily market updates and food tips.Exploring Israel’s Markets with Harry: A Culinary Journey
Kohlrabi-Carrot Fritters Recipe
While potato latkes are a Hanukkah classic, these kohlrabi-carrot fritters add a modern twist with Middle Eastern flavors.
Ingredients:
2 medium kohlrabi, peeled and grated
2 large carrots, peeled and grated
1 small onion, finely grated
2 eggs
1/3 cup all-purpose flour or matzo meal
1 tsp ground cumin
2 tbsp chopped fresh cilantro
1/2 tsp salt
Black pepper to taste
Vegetable oil for frying
Instructions:
Place the grated kohlrabi, carrots, and onion in a colander. Press out excess liquid using a kitchen towel or your hands.
In a large bowl, mix the vegetables with eggs, flour, cumin, cilantro, salt, and pepper until well combined.
Heat about 1/4 inch of oil in a frying pan over medium heat. Scoop heaping tablespoons of the mixture, flatten slightly, and place in the hot oil.
Fry for 3–4 minutes per side until golden brown and crisp. Remove and drain on paper towels.
Serve warm with a dollop of labneh or sour cream and a sprinkle of fresh herbs.
Enjoy these crispy fritters as a festive appetizer or side dish!
Another of Harry’s recipe that is perfect for winter is Yeminite Gingerbread
Happy Healthy Hanukkah - we need it!
Am Yisrael Chai
Kenden
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